Strait of Gibraltar

Between the southern tip of Spain and the coast of Morocco, the sea narrows to 14.4 km (8.9 mi), 7.8 nautical miles: this is the shortest distance across the Strait, between Punta de Oliveros and Punta Cires, as declared by the association that ratifies the crossings. However, no one swims that line. Almost all crossings start from Isla de Tarifa and head towards Punta Cires, and the current extends the actual route to 15-22 km (9.3-13.7 mi).

Two seas meeting

The Strait of Gibraltar is the only passage between the Atlantic and the Mediterranean. Atlantic water, which is less salty and lighter, enters at the surface and flows eastward; below, Mediterranean water, which is denser and colder, flows out to the west. For swimmers, the former is what counts: at certain moments during the crossing, it exceeds 3 knots, about 5.5 km/h (3.4 mph), faster than almost anyone in the water. The association has recorded peaks of over 7 knots during spring tides. For this reason, one does not swim against the current but across it, letting oneself be carried eastward, and trying to time it with the final part, which pushes towards the Moroccan coast.

No two days have the same currents, not even at the same time and with the same tidal coefficient. Generally, one starts at high tide; the exact time is decided based on the swimmer's speed, tide tables, and weather forecasts.

The wind decides

In Tarifa, the deciding factor is the wind. Maritime authorities only authorize departures with winds up to force 3 on the Beaufort scale and visibility of at least 5 miles. The Levante, the east wind that blows hard and for long periods on this coast, blocks departures for days: in 1948, the Peruvian Daniel Carpio waited twenty days in Tarifa before being able to enter the water. July and September are the months with the fewest days of strong wind; in July and August, however, fog can occur, especially at dawn and dusk, and that also halts the attempt.

For this reason, the association does not assign a day but an entire week, and the good day is known only one or two days in advance. Waiting lists can exceed two years.

Three hundred ships a day

More than three hundred ships pass through the Strait every day, not counting ferries, fishing boats, and pleasure craft. The maritime rescue centers in Tarifa and Tangier broadcast warnings at regular intervals. If a ship does not respect them, the swimmer may be brought onto the boat and then resume from the same point, recorded by the escort boat.

How to swim

One starts after sunrise, from the support boat stopped at Isla de Tarifa, touching land; one arrives before sunset at a natural point on the African coast, in Morocco or Ceuta. On the Spanish side, the permitted coast runs from Isla de Tarifa to Punta Carnero; on the African side, from Punta Cires to Playa Benítez. One starts from Morocco only for round-trip crossings.

The regulations require being able to hold out for at least six hours in the water and a minimum speed of 3 km/h (1.9 mph), 4 km/h (2.5 mph) for the double crossing: those who cannot overcome the counter-current are pulled out. Feedings last less than a minute and are passed by hand, without touching the boat. Swimwear must not go below the knees. A medical certificate, insurance, and passport on board are required, and one must be at least eighteen years old. Crossings with a wetsuit and those without are kept in two separate lists.

A crossing generally lasts from four to seven hours. The water ranges from 15 °C (59 °F) in winter to 22-23 °C (71.6-73.4 °F) in summer, and the season runs from April to October.

Who records it

Crossings are accompanied and ratified by the Asociación Cruce a Nado del Estrecho de Gibraltar, founded in Tarifa in 1999 by a group that had been following swimmers alongside the Red Cross since the eighties. For every crossing, the pilot fills out a form with times and positions and verifies that the regulations are respected. Their register starts from the first crossing, that of Mercedes Gleitze in 1928, and is the source of the rankings on this page.